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PODCAST

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

Alan Arnette is a renowned mountaineer and Alzheimer"s advocate. He is well-known in the mountaineering community for his extensive climbing experience and his blog at alanarnette.com, which chronicles his expeditions and provides insights into mountaineering. He summited Mount Everest in 2011, Mount Manaslu in 2013, and K2 in 2014 at 58, making him the 18th and oldest American to summit the second-highest peak in the world. https://www.alanarnette.com

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All Episodes

00:34:10

Everest 2022 Season Wrap-Up

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/29

2022 brought even more stable weather windows than during the great Everest 2018. This May, a stalled high-pressure system made for horrendous temperatures in Northern India while paradoxically creating nearly ideal climbing conditions across much, but not all, of the Himalayas. The net result was nearly 650 people summiting from Everest's Nepal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. Unlike previous seasons, this spring saw more experienced climbers resulting in fewer deaths, rescues, and an overall

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00:51:48

Adrian Ballinger Record Makalu 2022 Ski Descent

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/27

The world's fifth-highest at 27,765 feet (8,463 meters), Makalu saw multiple successes this season. Still, on Monday, May 9, 2022,Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, texted me, "I summited today with Dorji Sonam and Pasang Sona(Alpenglow Sherpa). We fixed to the summit from where rope fixing ended by French couloir. And….I skied Makalu!!!!!! I just got back to ABC. First on top for the season. Alpenglow pride" He walks through the climb, discussing how the Sherpas fixed the summit ropes, poor

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00:13:18

Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 23 - The Season That...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/22

This Everest season is like a runny nose that won't stop. You blow hard, wipe it clean, and all of a sudden, there it goes again. Just as I thought base camp was empty, as well as the other 8000ers, people keep showing up at the South Col and summiting. I guess with winds so calm (relatively - there are still those moments) that leaders are demonstrating great patience and trust in the weather forecasters to let the route clear out before taking their peeps higher. And that's how it's supposed to be

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01:05:41

Everest 2022- Chatting with Jim Davidson about...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/14

While we watch summit after summit on Everest 2022, I reached out to my long-time friend, mentor, and climbing partner, Jim Davidson, to take a trip down memory lane and talk about our Everest experiences. We talk training, preparation, and being on Everest during the tragic 2015 earthquake, and of course, my summit in 2011 and Jim's in 2017. It's a fun, fast-paced conversation that I know you will enjoy. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast:

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00:45:14

Rescue and Frostbite on Annapurna 2022: Tim Bogdanov

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/09

This is a special Podcast and YouTube interview with Tim Bogdanov, 37, who was rescued from Annapurna last month. He tells a chilling tale of getting lost and multiple mistakes he made during his no Os climb. Tim has summits of Manaslu and Dhaulagiri plus over 30 6,000-meters peaks around the world. His style is to climb alone and without supplemental oxygen. He summited Annapurna on April 28 alongside an Indian team that was climbing independently. Also on the summit, that day was Italian Alpinist

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00:18:56

Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 8 - Ropes to the...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/08

It was a busy week in the Himalayas with summits on multiple 8000ers, including Everest. On the Nepal side of the mountain, Kami Rita Sherpa led the rope team to the summit and at the same time extended his summit record to 26. Sadly, there were two more deaths of the season, one on Kangchenchunga and another on Everest.Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season. With the good weather emerging, the summit trolls will now allow everyone to make their attempts. Big Picture 2022 is turning out to be an

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00:21:34

Everest 2022- Talking Weather with Three Experts

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/05

With both sides of Everest seeing significant activity, let's pause and talk to three world-class weather experts about the current situation and what they see in store for May. Also, I ask them to predict the first day for a member to summit Everest. The historical weather pattern on Everest has been a calm April, a rough beginning of May before calming again starting around May 15 for about two weeks. In this Podcast with Michael Fagen of Everest Weather, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions,

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00:20:38

Everest 2022 Weekend Update May 1, 2022

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/01

It's May Day on Everest and some teams are having a party, while others are focused on their acclimatization schedule, and some now eying the summit. But everyone needs to wait for the fixed ropes. The upper mountain may have some moderate winds that may delay the rope team. We saw summits on a few 8000ers but the conditions remain iffy. Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season. Big Picture With so many climbers high on Everest, the news is scarce due to a lack of comms. Teams are doing their

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00:33:42

Everest-2022--Weekend-Update-April-24--2022

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/24

As we enter the last week of April, the climbing on Everest is in the full program. Climbers are all over the lower mountain from EBC to Camps 1 and 2. Sherpas are incredibly busy stocking camps. Meanwhile, on the other 8000ers, progress was stalled by weather, but still climbing underway on some others. All in all, it's a low-drama year thus far. Big Picture As of April 24, 2022, the Ministry of Tourism has issued 876 total climbing permits, with 302 for Everest, including 72 female climbers, or

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00:17:09

Everest 2022: How Fast Can you Climb Everest?

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/20

Everest used to take a minimum of two months home to home. In 2019 Roxxane Vogel did it in two weeks. So what's changed and what's a reasonable time today? You can see the blog post with more details at https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/19/everest-2022-how-fast-can-you-climb-everest/ Climb On Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

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00:38:21

Everest 2022: Weekend Update, April 17, 2022- First...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/17

Activity is strong at Everest Base Camp, with more still on the trek. The permits increased as expected this past week and will top out fairly soon. They still lag behind last year by over 100 for Everest. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm, ready for more teams to arrive at EBC this week. We saw the first 8000er deaths of the 2022 Spring season this past week. #everest2022 Big Picture As of April 15, 2022, the Ministry of Tourism has issued 738 total climbing permits thus far,

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00:27:48

Everest 2022 Weekend Update April 10, 2022 - First...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/10

Activity is picking up with climbers getting closer to Everest Base Camp, plus many more have arrived in Kathmandu. The permits have increased as expected this past week but lag behind last year. Teams will arrive at EBC this upcoming week. We saw the first 8000er summits of the 2022 Spring season this past week. The Khumbu has changed dramatically over the past couple of decades. The teahouses have improved over the ones with poorly ventilated, dark, and cold rooms. Today, the newer ones have large

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00:36:55

Interview with Jennifer Drummond - First Woman for...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/08

Jenn Drummond doesn't let much stop her from achieving her goals. Having all of her climbing gear not show up for a climb was a mere inconvenience for this 41-year-old mother of seven children. Jenn is on a mission to be the first female climber to summit the so-called Second Seven Summits. We are all familiar with the first seven, and around 500 people have accomplished that goal. Still, only a handful have completed the 2nd, and no females. I met Jenn via mySummit Coachconsulting business almost

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00:15:17

Everest 2022: Interview with Garrett Madison from...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/07

I caught up withGarrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Nepal's Namache Bazaar while on his way to Everest Base Camp. He describes #Everest2022 as looking more like a normal season. He has 12 members with three guides plus two private parties of a guide with their client. We also talk about climbing the so-called Second Seven Summits. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

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00:10:17

Everest 2022 - The Moment I first Considered Climbing...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/06

Teams continue to arrive in Kathmandu from afar. Many are proudly posting pictures of receiving their Everest climbing permits, but as of today, the pace is way off what we saw only a few years ago or even last year. In this post, I talk about the first time I thought about climbing Everest, back in 2002. Big Picture By early April 2021 Nepal had issued 222 permits for 23 teams, but this year that number is 138 on 16 teams.It looks like Everest will get somewhat of a respite this season with less

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00:26:17

Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 3, 2022

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/04/03

Now that we are in April, the trekking and climbing season will get serious. Many teams have already arrived and are trekking. Several teams are acclimatizing on their 8000-meter peaks while the Icefall Doctors are constructing the route through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 2. Soon it will be time to climb! \ In this podcast, I discuss teams arriving but go into detail on the time our climbers arrive in Kathmandu, flying to Lukla, the start of the trek to Everest Base Camp. I hope you enjoy it

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00:19:15

Everest 2022: Weekend Update March 27 2022

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/03/27

Welcome to Alan Arnette's first Everest 2022 Podcast. I introduce the season with an overview of how many people might be climbing this year, the impact of COVID and the Russian invasion of Ukraine on the number of foreign climbers, and more. I hope you enjoy it. #everest2022 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

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00:49:36

Video Interview with Kuntal Joisher - 100% Vegan...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/02/25

Every person who climbs Everest is unique. So, of course, that person feels special, but some stand out. Take Kuntal Joisher, for example. He has summited Everest from the Tibet and Nepal sides, plus Lhotse, and completed many other amazing adventures like the Northern Icecap in Chile. But what makes Kuntal stand out is his dedication to a vegan lifestyle that goes all the way to shunning any item that uses animal products - including using a full synthetic climbing suit. We discuss how he got to

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00:46:09

Everest 2022: Podcast with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/02/09

With the Everest 2022season just around the corner, it appears the Tibet side will be closed and continued uncertainty about the wisdom of climbing on the Nepal side. There are questions as to whether operators should run their programs at all. Many are moving forward but a few are not. I discuss the situation with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow Expeditionswho has canceled his expedition from the Tibet side this spring. We also talk about his plans for a no O's, ski descent on Makalu. As we

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00:37:19

How Much Does It Cost to Climb Everest - 2022 Edition

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/02/01

2022 will be my 19th season of all-things Everest: 14 times providing coverage, another four seasons of actually climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the2004,2005,2006,2007,2009,2010, 2012,2013,2014,2015,2016,2017,2018,2019and2021seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitiousVirtual Everestseries available as ane-Bookhttps://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

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179 results

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