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PODCAST

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

Alan Arnette is a renowned mountaineer and Alzheimer"s advocate. He is well-known in the mountaineering community for his extensive climbing experience and his blog at alanarnette.com, which chronicles his expeditions and provides insights into mountaineering. He summited Mount Everest in 2011, Mount Manaslu in 2013, and K2 in 2014 at 58, making him the 18th and oldest American to summit the second-highest peak in the world. https://www.alanarnette.com

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All Episodes

00:58:21

Interview with Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry: Six 8000ers in...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/11/01

I caught up with British climber, Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry to discuss her amazing 2021 where she climbed on six 8000-meter mountains. This British mother of five children ages 12 to 18, had limited high altitude experience before with summits of Island Peak and Ama Dablam, but deep inside she wanted to try the hard ones. Along with British Professional Mountain Guide, Jon Gupta, they started with Everest and Lhotse as a "warm-up' for K2 but overall climbed on six peaks reaching the main summits of

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00:52:15

2021 Himalayan Climbs: Interview with Jon Gupta:...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/10/20

I caught up with British climbing Guide, Jon Gupta of Mountain Expeditions to discuss his amazing 2021 where he guided mostly one client, fellow Brit Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry on six 8000-meter mountains. He also climbed a 7000er with a friend and is now on Ama Dablam. Overall he climbed (time the discussion starts in the video) Everest (Summit) at 19:50 Lhotse (Summit) at 22:00 Makalu (reached 7500m) K2 (Summit) at 25:05 Pobeda (reached 7200m) Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160m) at 40:00

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00:44:09

Interview with The First All Black American Team to...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/09/21

It was an honor to do this video interview with three of the nine members, seven male, and two female, of the Full Circle Everest team. They hope to make history as the first Black climbing team to attempt to summit Everest. As of late 2021, there have been 10,184 summits but only eight Black climbers have stood on the top. According to the Himalayan Database, South African Sibusiso Vilane became the first Black to summit on May 26, 2003, and returned in 2005 to summit from the Tibet side, both

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00:41:17

Interview with Jost Kobusch's Winter 2021/22 Everest...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/09/09

I caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France to discuss his upcoming winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. This exact style and the route had never been attempted or accomplished. In 2019, Jost tagged his high point at 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. He said before starting the expedition, he would be pleased to tag 8,000-meters so he got close. This time he is again targeting 8,000-meters and I hope he reaches the summit. We cover a range of topics from

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00:19:10

K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Season Wrap-Up and What's Next?

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/08/04

In this episode I close out the summer climbing season in Pakistan's Karakorum area. Also I discuss what we can expect in the world of mountaineering over the next several months. The summer Karakorum season is over, well, I think so. There are always a few surprises. The 48 summits on K2 were close but not a record. 2018 saw a record with 62 total summits, followed by 2004 with an estimated 51. This season saw two deaths, one on a new route on K2 and one on Broad Peak. Overall there were around 100

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00:18:01

K2 2021: Post Summit Interview with Garrett Madison

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/07/30

Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineeringhas now summited K2 three times. Only one other person has more. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. He was the leader for the 21 person team who submitted onJuly 28, 2018, at approximately 6:07 AM PKT (local time) We discussed his team summit plus the latest on finding the bodies of the 3 missing winter climbers. And an update on the West

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00:20:17

K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Death, Body Retrieval and...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/07/26

In this Podcast I cover the recent events in Pakistan's Northern Territories on K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I & II. Heavy snowfall and high winds have delayed progress on K2 but there have been summits on Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak along with the death of Mr. Kim Hong-Bin, 57. The bodies of winter K2 climbers Pakistani Ali Sadpara, Icelander John Snorri, and Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto who went missing were found between the Bottleneck and High Camp. Over 50 climbers are expected to

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00:22:32

K2 2021 Summer Coverage: Interview with Garrett...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/07/15

Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineeringis one of the few people on the planet to have summited K2 twice. He's hoping to get his third this 2021 summer. This is his sixth expedition to K2 making him the most experienced western operator to run regular trips to the Northern Terrorities of Pakistan. With the new 4G Cell tower in Concordia, Garret took the hour walk from K2 Base Camp to Broad Peak Base Camp to talk with me over Zoom about his expedition. We discussed their rotations to Camp 1

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00:21:49

K2 2021: Season Halftime Update

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/07/12

The 2021 summer climbing season in Pakistan's Kararum Range is heating up as we approach mid-way through the season. Teams are making great progress with Camps set as high as 7,000-meters, C3 on K2 and Broad Peak. Also, we already have summits on Gasherbrum II by a French team who skied down. Then there was a guide who paraglided off Broad Peak around 6600-meters. So lots of activities I discuss in this episode plus I talk through the climb on K2 from Base Camp to Advanced base Camp, then Camp 1 and

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00:16:49

K2 - 2021: The Season Begins

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/06/28

The summer season has begun in Pakistan's Karakoram range with climbers on K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I/II, and Nanga Parbat. The ropes have already reached C1 on K2 and climbers have slept at C1 on both Broad and GI. Due to some mixed signals from Pakistan authorities, many operators canceled their climbs this summer making for a relatively low number on the peaks a bit less than 200 across all five with K2 having the most at 88. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything www.alanarnette.com ---

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00:24:44

Denali 2021: Season RoundUp

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/06/23

The 2021 climbing season on North America's highest peak, Denali, is nearing the end. I take a look at some "fun facts" and how this season has progressed. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

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01:10:41

Everest 2021: Art Muir Oldest American Summiteer

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/06/16

Art Muir at age 75 became the oldest American to summit Mt. Everest on May 12, 2021, with Maddison Mountaineering. He surpassed Bill Burke who held the American Everest age record for 11 years. Burke summited at age 67 on the Nepal side and again from the Tibet side in 2014 at 72. Japanese mountaineer Yoichiro Miura is the oldest person to summit in 2013 at age 80. I spoke with Art about his motivation, how his family felt about his plans, his 2019 attempt, prior climbing experience then we got into

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00:40:04

K2 2021: Interview with Graham Zimmerman - West Ridge

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/06/10

This summer K2 will see a rare event, an attempt on the fully unclimbed West Ridge.Canadian Ian Welsted and American Graham Zimmerman will make an alpine attempt with no oxygen.While the route has been partially climbed three times, the final few hundred meters have never been completed for various reasons. They leave for Pakistan on June 17. After an extensive acclimatization program which may include climbing the 8000er Broad Peak, they hope to summit near the end of July. Ian and Graham have a

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00:27:21

Everest 2021 Season Summary

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/06/06

As I sat down to write a recap of the 2021 spring season on Everest, these words came to mind: COVID, coverup, lies, misdirection, personal attacks, denials. Oh, and cyclones, wind, waiting, risk, and yes, summits. But, oh my, at what a cost? If 2019 was the year Everest broke, 2021 was the year Nepal broke Everest. With 2020 lost to the global pandemic, Nepal was desperate to rebuild its tourism industry. Last autumn, a few teams returned, but spring was the key. Everest served as a light to a

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00:10:24

Everest 2021: Summits After the Cyclone and Before...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/31

I'll talk about the last few days of this Everest 2021 season. A reported 16 people (6 members with 10 Sherpas) took a gamble and summited on Monday, May 31 at 7:00 am. They evaluated the risky avalanche conditions after feet on fresh snow and used their powerful Sherpa resources to break the trail for their clients to the top. Well done by all and congratulations on dodging the ball. More details on the C3 situation re: avalanches. By my count: 167 members with 284 Sheras thus far, for a total of

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00:14:52

Everest 2021: Cancellations, COVID and Windy

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/27

Heavy snow was reported on Everest, but some teams are reporting low winds. Once again, the truth is opaque on Everest. The gag order by the Nepal government has had a dramatic impact on teams’ willingness to share any information that could be construed as negative, thus all the happy talk. A handful of teams are still eyeing the end of the month for one last try. Cyclone Yaas is expected to touch Everest for another 24 to 48 hours or until May 29, thus leaving an opening as early as Saturday but

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00:27:41

Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 23 plus Cyclone Update

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/23

We saw summit wave 3 today, Sunday, May 23 2021 on #Everest2021. Estimates range from 150 to 170 summits, including Sherpas. This takes the season total to around 300 total summits, way off from the 2019 record 660 just on the Nepal side.High winds delayed departure from the South Col by several hours. Another 100 or so climbers are staged ready to summit Monday morning, May 24 before a big change in the weather. --- Support this podcast:

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00:11:05

Everest 2021: Risk Management

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/21

Teams are making serious summit plans with a few already staged at the South Col albeit in windy conditions. In fact, it’s too windy to go for the summit so they will hold in place Saturday, May 22 hoping to leave late Saturday night for a Sunday, May 23rd summit. It’s all about risk management at this moment. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

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00:12:09

Everest 2021: Summit Plans

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/20

The remanence of Cyclone Tauktaeis playing cat and mouse with the aggressive teams. Madison Mountaineering hoped to get a jump on everyone and went to C3 only to find high winds. Four Sherpas from IMG made it to the South Col and also reported high winds. So the summit plans are off by a day with Madison now targeting May 22. Big Picture Teams are scattered from base camp to the South Col. Most appear to be targeting May 21 through the 24 for their summit. Sherpas stocked the Col over a week ago

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00:45:17

Everest 2021: Video Interview with Lukas Furtenbach...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/18

Lukas Furtenbach, of Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures,made global headlines after he canceled his spring 2021 Everest expedition on the Nepal side last Friday.This follows the Chinese decision to cancel their only team on the Tibet side. Meanwhile, the officials responsible for the safety of guests climbing in Nepal deny climbers have COVID at Everest Base Camp. I interviewed Lukas from Everest Base Camp and we covered a lot of other topics including: Planning knowing COVID was a possibility at

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179 results

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