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PODCAST

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

Alan Arnette is a renowned mountaineer and Alzheimer"s advocate. He is well-known in the mountaineering community for his extensive climbing experience and his blog at alanarnette.com, which chronicles his expeditions and provides insights into mountaineering. He summited Mount Everest in 2011, Mount Manaslu in 2013, and K2 in 2014 at 58, making him the 18th and oldest American to summit the second-highest peak in the world. https://www.alanarnette.com

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All Episodes

00:20:43

Everest 2021: Climbers Stand Down. Typhoon Approaching

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/16

The good news is the jet stream is easing off Everest as it moves north, the bad news is a cyclone skirting the west coast of India is expected to turn right running perpendicular to the Himalayas bringing strong weather along with it. It could "flood the mountain" according to meteorologist Chris Tomer and Everest Weather's Michael Fagin. Chris has told his clients on Everest and Makalu to "stand down" and wait this event out. Cyclone TC01A aka Tauktae is predicted to bring heavy snow, perhaps two

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00:07:21

Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 15, 2021

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/15

It was a big week of news on Everest this past week from clients summiting to a major operator canceling their expedition. This next week looks to be even bigger with 300 people trying to summit beginning May 19. I estimate 172 summits last week on May 11, 12, and 13. The jet stream was south of Everest thus the conditions were about as good as it gets on this high peak. However as the jet moved north, the winds picked back up, and teams that were hoping to squeeze a summit bid in before it hit with

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00:17:31

Everest 2021: Death on Everest

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/14

The #Everest2021 scene is quiet now with the jet stream on top of the summit. On the Tibet side, China canceled the only expedition there. I’m getting a few reports of high winds at C3 from the last rotation, and it’s worse now. That said, look for teams to begin their summit bids aiming for May 19-23. If for next week they will leave EBC on Monday, May 17th, or perhaps this weekend. Sadly death on Everest occurs almost every year. Since 1953, only 1965, 1971, and 1985 saw no deaths when people

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00:16:58

Everest 2021: Recap of Summit Waves 1 & 2

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/12

With Everest 2021 well underway, we are seeing the first commercial clients summit after the ropes reached the summit by the Sherpa team on Friday, May 7, 2021. Now over 150 people have summited just as the weather turns bad. it looks like only a few more summits until after May 20. There are a bout 350 more people left to attempt the summit, including Sherpas. I discuss the season thus far plus the COVID outbreak in Nepal and the oxygen crisis. --- Support this podcast:

en

00:04:49

Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 8/9

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/08

The rope fixing team made the summit on Friday, May 7, 2021, opening the route to the over 300 climbers left at base camp. The weather remains good, for Everest, so look for many teams to jump on this window. Meanwhile, it appears that the virus spread has stalled for the moment with no new cases reported at EBC for over a week. It’s unknown if this is real or more coverups. The Nepal government announced plans to assist climbers in leaving Nepal and another ban on any negative news saying “as it

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00:14:00

Everest 2021: Climbing on Everest

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/06

The season continues on schedule and as normal as possible in this difficult year. Reports of helicopter evacuations have slowed to a trickle either because they are not happening or no one is talking. We know for sure the government is mum. Let's assume there are no new cases and hope for the best. Slowly a few teams are revealing that they brought rapid test kits and are doing regular testing. Not sure why it was felt important to keep this quiet, perhaps none of our business I suppose. I think it

en

00:07:51

Everest 2021: Good News at Mid Season

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/05

Now that we are solidly into May, about mid-season for spring Everest, let's pause for a moment and take inventory of the situation. At the risk of giving readers whiplash, the bottom line for me is that things are looking better ... considering. Without a doubt, this may be the most challenging season in the history of Everest, perhaps topped only by the earthquake in 2015 and the extreme loss of life in 1996 and 2014. The overall situation has changed a bit in the last ten days with regards to the

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00:12:42

Everest 2021: Interview with Garrett Madison from...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/03

I caught up withGarrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp. He describes #Everest2021 thus far as they prepare for a 2:00 am departure back to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. This will be their last rotation before the summit push in a couple of weeks. I asked him how his team, Madison Mountaineering, was doing with the COVID outbreak at EBC. I talk in the beginning about the virus situation at EBC and the possible scenarios that could unfold over the next few weeks

en

00:41:35

Everest 2021: Guide Interview with Kenton Cool

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/02

Kenton Cool is one of the premier climbers from the United Kingdom. Among his many accomplishments, he skied the 8000er Cho Oyu, made the first, and thus far only, climb of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse in seven days in 2013. And he has summited Everest 14 times. He's currently on Everest with a client attempting his 15th which would tie American Dave Hahn for the most non-Sherpa summits of Everest. I caught up with Kenton while he was in Namache Bazzar recovering from his acclimatization rotations in

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00:08:30

Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 2

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/05/02

It's clear that there is or has been COVID at Everest Base Camp. Well, at least it clear that people who had it there were taken to Kathmandu where they tested positive and are receiving treatment. It's also clear that Nepal is seeing a huge spike in new cases and has gone under lockdown once again. Finally, it's clear that India has become a super-spreader country and needs global help to respond. Nepal tourism officials continue to deny there are any problems at base camp other than one person who

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00:23:51

Interview with Ed Viesturs and David Schaeffer of...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/29

Ed Viesturs has joined David Scheffer's Himali gear company. I interview the pair about how they met, Ed's contribution to an updated product line, and Ed's project with Inspiration4 - the first civilian space flight in history. University of Colorado graduate, David Schaeffer started the outdoor gear company, Himali, in 2014 along with Tendi Sherpa.Today, the Boulder, Colorado company has grown nicely and, in my opinion, is about to really take off. Ed Viesturs, known globally as an author,

en

00:08:19

Everest 2021: Teams in the Western Cwm, EBC COVID...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/28

Climbers in the Western Cwm are extending their stays to avoid EBC with the current spat of COVID evacuations. Good weather is allowing climbers to tag Camp 3 at almost 7,000-meters. The rope fixing teams reached the South Col. I expect the summit in a few days. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

en

00:15:51

Everest 2021: The Missing Jet Stream

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/27

With climbers enjoying excellent weather while in the Western Cwm, meteorologists are seeing a strange phenomenon - a missing jet stream. These high winds aloft are the key for summiting Everest in particular. When the jet is off the summit, the winds drop below 30 mph, the maximum most guides will let their clients climb in. When on top of the peak, which is almost all year long, the summit is too dangerous. Climbers have been known to be blown off mountain tops. This could foretell good luck for

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00:15:32

Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 25 2021 - COVID...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/25

The headlines for last week are COVID and record permits. Four people have been evacuated either from Everest Base Camp or very close with symptoms of COVID-19. Once in Kathmandu, they tested positive for the virus. It's a similar story for a few Sherpas. Look for the ropes to reach the summit this next week. Without a doubt, the virus is in the Khumbu and spreading. The open question will be if it can be contained at EBC. Complicating the situation is Nepal's limitless issuance of permits, now

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00:43:07

Author Interview: Mark Synnott The Third Pole

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/23

While there are many books about Everest, only a few rise to a level above the rest. For me, it involves excellent storytelling, a unique point of view, a highly personal angle, and perhaps a bit of history. Well, The Third Pole by Mark Synnott ticks all these boxes. For those who may not know Mark, he is a Noth Face sponsored athlete, New York Times best-selling author, and has also worked extensively in the film and television industry, both in front of and behind the camera. He is a world-class

en

00:10:39

Everest 2021: Interview with Mike Hamill of Climbing...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/21

I caught up withEverest Guide Mike Hamill owner of Climbing The Seven Summits (CTSS) live at EBC to discuss Base Camp luxuries for #Everest2021. CTSS was founded by Mike after years of serving as a lead guide for another major company. He has a loyal following of clients and has set long-term goals to be a significant player in the global mountaineering market. Mike's vision is to meet his client's needs and expectations and appears to be a leader, not a follower when it comes to base camp services

en

00:11:12

Everest 2021: Avalanche Stops Climbing

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/20

The 2021 spring Everest season continues pretty much on track in spite of a few developments. The climbing permits issued by Nepal are approaching the 2019 record numbers so look for crowds similar to 2019 in the usual spots. The weather has been pretty normal as well. An avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest made a direct hit on the Khumbu Icefall blocking the route on Tuesday, April 20, 2021. The Icefall Doctors suggest it will take five days to repair. --- Support this podcast:

en

00:37:33

Author Interview with Jim Davidson - The Next Everest

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/20

Now, Jim takes us on another journey, this time to Mt. Everest. A life-long dream, Jim starts the book remembering being at Camp 1 in the Western Cwm at 19,700-feet on Mt Everest when the 7.8 magnitude earthquake struck the region. I was a bit higher in the Cwm that day at Camp 2. Reading Jim's description of the harrowing events, rescues, courage, and loss of life brought back vivid memories. But Jim does more than tell an earthquake story. He takes us inside his tent as he and his tentmate thought

en

00:11:42

Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 18,2021

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/18

Everest Base Camp is quickly filling up. Sherpas are busy establishing and stocking Camps 1 and 2. Thus far the fixed ropes have been set to the Yellow Band around 24,000-feet. As previously noted, there are few trekkers this spring so the teahouses and trails feel empty to those I’ve spoken with.Internet at EBC is sketchy at best.There is one 40-person Chinese national team on the Tibet side, otherwise, it’s closed to foreigners. They established their base camp this past week. --- Support this

en

00:10:10

Everest 2021: Interview with Everest Climber Eric...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2021/04/16

I caught up with Everest Climber Eric Gran from Dingboche. This is Eric's first trip to Nepal and he describes the journey thus far for #Everest2021. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

en

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