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PODCAST

American Alpine Club Podcast

American Alpine Club Podcast

The American Alpine Club Podcast is your guide to the climbing community. We"re not your typical training podcast. Instead, we"re covering the advocacy issues facing climbers, diving into forgotten and niche stories from climbing history, discovering undercover crushers, analyzing trends in climbing accidents, hearing from SAR professionals, and exploring the biggest cultural ideas in climbing with some of climbing"s top athletes.

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All Episodes

00:50:59

CONNECT: Summiting Denali, Living the Dream

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/09/25

In this episode, we had Live Your Dream grant recipient John Thomson on the pod to tell us all about his trip to Denali! Our Live Your Dream grant is our most popular grant, and it’s powered by The North Face.John’s LYD story is about feeling a sense of urgency–how now is the time to explore and pursue big adventures, a strong sense of carpe diem really. After nearly a decade away from Denali, John returned, only to get caught up in helping with a rescue, and not getting to pursue his goal route

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01:12:05

PROTECT: Amity Warme and a YOSAR Climbing Ranger...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/08/05

Its another Yosemite episode! And with some of the most in-the-know climbers, pro Amity Warme and Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey, who weigh in on what’s been happening in Yosemite, both climbing wise, and in terms of community discussions about the future of climbing ethics and style there. In this episode, we get to know crusher Amity Warme, and her perspectives on going ground-up on El Cap, how she’s recently been toeing the line between pushing her limits versus being in over her head, and how

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00:53:43

Educate: Search and Rescue Helicopter Evacuation in...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/07/18

This year, the featured winner of the Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award is the Black Canyon Search and Rescue team, who performed an incredibly technical rescue in 2023 in the Black Canyon, after a climber took a bad fall that left them unconscious, needing medical attention almost 2,000 ft down into the canyon. In this episode, we sit down to chat with Sean Hart, one of the SAR team members at the scene that day, who walks us through the unique challenges of climbing and rescuing in The Black,

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00:44:59

PROTECT: First Ascents, Ground Falls, and the AAC...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/06/26

In this episode, we sit down with Jarod, a long-time AAC member, to discuss a crazy accident he had at his home crag in Missouri, and how he utilized the AAC’s rescue benefit to cover the cost of his medical expenses. If you’ve been wondering if the AAC’s rescue benefit is for you, Jarod’s story helps explain how it works. We dive into the quirky concept of “girdle traverses” or mulitpitches that go sideways, and analyze his accident— the decisions he made, how traversing complicates gear

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01:03:41

EDUCATE: The Climbing World's Best Books about...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/06/17

This year’s editions of Accidents in North American Climbing and American Alpine Journal are off to the printer! We had Dougald MacDonald and Pete Takeda on the podcast, the editors of these world-renowned books, to discuss all the details of what goes into making these books: including how stories get selected, the challenges of investigating how accidents happen, how these books fit into the larger climbing media landscape, and the long history of these books. Our editors also chat about what

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01:27:21

EDUCATE: The Untold Stories of Sherpas, Baltis, and...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/05/22

In this episode, we cover the untold and complex experience of local climbers in the Greater Ranges—how Sherpa, Baltis, and other local climbers have navigated the complex landscape of living and working on Everest and in the Karakoram. We sat down with three incredible writers—Nandini Purandare and Deepa Balsavar, who are the authors of the newly released book "Headstrap–Legends and Lore from the Climbing Sherpas of Darjeeling"; and also the well-known mountain writer Bernadette McDonald, who has

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01:19:52

CONNECT: Inside the Life of a Climbing Photographer

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/05/01

Note: This episode is explicit. In this episode, we had adventure photographer Jeremiah Watt on the pod to talk about all things climbing photography. Miah is a big fan of the AAC, and regularly donates his incredible photos to us! In this episode, Miah and the AAC’s award-winning Graphic Designer Foster Denney dive into topics like the life of a freelancer, what it takes to get the right shot on the wall, trends in climbing photography, the physical toll like jugging fixed lines to get the shot,

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00:49:22

CONNECT: Mo Beck on the Impact of Adaptive Climbing...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/04/02

*Adaptive Climbing Festival is a finalist for the 2024 Changemaker Award!*Adaptive Climbing Festival (ACF) is crafting a shift in adaptive climbing. Not only is it easier than ever for a person with a disability to TRY paraclimbing, but through ACF, there are also now more opportunities to build skills and depth in the paraclimbing community, deepening the knowledge and expertise that adaptive leaders can use to empower future generations of adaptive climbers. We sat down with Mo Beck, one of

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01:06:39

CLIMB: Katie Lamb Dives Deep on Her Send of "Box...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/04/02

*Katie Lamb's send of Box Therapy is a finalist for the AAC's Climb of the Year Award!* In 2023, Katie Lamb sent Box Therapy. It was a definite level-up for her personal climbing, and with this ascent, she became the first woman in history to climb a boulder that many consider to be V16. Her landmark send made waves, and that’s why she is a finalist for the AAC’s Climb of the Year Award. We chatted with Katie about all that went into projecting Box Therapy, her climbing philosophy, how to use

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00:35:34

CLIMB: Babsi Zangerl's Secret to Her Exceptional...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/03/25

"I like to suck" Babsi says...and this mentality means she's constantly trying climbing styles and skills that she's bad at. And with that sense of curiosity, she acquires a breadth of mastery that is evident in her Yosemite accomplishments...In many ways, Babsi Zangerl has flown under the radar here in the United States. She doesn’t like to brag—she just wants to climb hard. But her dedication to climbing has resulted in an astonishing Yosemite resume. She has 6 free ascents of El Cap to her

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00:54:13

EDUCATE: Hazel Findlay on Yosemite, Magic Line, and...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/03/05

We sat down with the master of climbing mindset, Hazel Findlay. Hazel has made many significant free ascents of El Cap, and is one of the very few to climb the storied single pitch trad test piece, Magic Line. In this episode of the podcast, we talk with Hazel about her history with Yosemite, the projecting process for Magic Line, and of course, tips and tricks for building a strong mind. She shares some of her best insights about finding flow; a new concept that compliments flow, called clutch;

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00:42:18

GAME DAY: Hueco Rock Rodeo

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/02/13

It’s about to be game on for the 28th annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, and so we had our own Game Day panel to talk shop about strategies for the competition, the major players to look out for, and how the condies are shaping up. We had Nina Williams and Jon Glassberg on the pod to chat podium predictions, climbing rivalries, who's injured, and who's coming in with momentum, and whether Daniel Woods is really going to win the Hueco Rock Rodeo, AGAIN. Dive in to get all the beta on the top competitors, funny

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00:57:38

CLIMB: Kyra Condie on Winning Hueco, Fear of Falling,...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/02/07

In this episode, we sit down with Mountain Hardwear athlete and Olympian Kyra Condie. Kyra has so much psyche and energy, and we had a wide ranging conversation, covering her past, present, and future climbing exploits. We start off with her experience winning the Hueco Rock Rodeo in 2017, her advice for competitors this year, and how her spinal fusion pushes her to have a creative mind and find her own beta. She also gave some excellent insight into the way comp climbers think, the key training

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00:30:41

Legacy Series: Tom Frost, Living and Photographing...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/02/05

Tom Frost was one of the leading climbers of his generation, making important first ascents on El Cap, like the North America Wall and Salathé Wall. He was also a world-class alpinist and one of the main photographers who crafted a visual record of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing, capturing the emotional imagery that would define a generation of climbers. Frost was at the forefront of defining clean climbing, often known for his enterprising and bold free climbing to avoid unnecessary bolting

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01:28:21

CLIMB: Tom Evans and Two Decades of Reporting on El...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2024/01/22

Tom Evans is the creator of the El Cap Report. He started out taking photos of all the climbers he’d see on El Cap, and got tired of answering questions about who was doing what and how X ascent was going. So he innovated. He started posting a daily report, accompanied by his photos, of what was happening on El Cap during the main Yosemite climbing season—and he since has crafted a legacy of 22 years of documenting “the center of the universe”—El Cap climbing. With his recent retirement from the El

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01:06:27

CONNECT: The FKT of the Rainier Infinity Loop, In...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/12/18

Abby Westling and Kiira Antenucci were devastated to lose their friend Luke to a climbing accident in 2022. But as they learned to cope with this tragedy, they began to dream up something big. In July of 2023, Kiira and Abby set out to attempt The Infinity Loop, an epic endurance test piece that summits Rainier twice and circumnavigates the mountain via the Wonderland Trail. The two have extensive experience as guides on Rainier, and have submitted dozens of times, but this challenge would push them

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01:06:54

EDUCATE: Everything You Didn't Know About Royal Robbins

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/11/30

Most climbers know the name Royal Robbins. But how much do you really know about this legendary figure in American climbing? Writer and editor David Smart has written a new award winning biography of Royal, called "Royal Robbins: The American Climber." The AAC sat down with David to discuss how Royal’s revolutionary years in Yosemite fits into the grander scheme of climbing history, the undervalued climbs from Royal’s life, his writerly intellectualism, bringing nuts to the US to replace pitons, his

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01:19:53

CONNECT: Behind the Scenes of Climbing Mentorship,...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/11/27

Kimber Cross is an adaptive climber who uses a custom prosthetic ice tool to climb waterfall ice around the country as well as alpine ice routes in her home state of Washington. She is a part of The North Face’s Athlete Development Program, and her mentor is long-time AAC supporter Kit DesLauriers, the first person to ski the seven summits. The AAC sat down with Kimber and Kit to talk about Kimber’s emerging career in alpinism and ski mountaineering. We also cover mentorship, setting goals, and some

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01:12:25

PROTECT: A Yosemite Climbing Ranger Weighs in on...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/10/20

In this episode, we sit down with Head Yosemite Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey to talk about the state of Yosemite climbing. We dig into what a climbing ranger’s job is like on a daily basis, and the knowledge Yosemite climbers should know that could prevent many accidents. We discuss the new splitter near Super Slide, as well as the need for, and initial success of the Big Wall Permit. We also cover an evolving conversation around style on El Cap and other classic big walls in the Park; camping and

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01:00:53

CONNECT: Undercover Crusher Andrew Leich Talks...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/10/02

Welcome to the first episode of our “Undercover Crushers” Series, where the AAC talks to some of the hidden gems of the climbing community—those climbers who are hitting big numbers under the radar, but also crushing in a different sense…contributing to their community in big ways, that often go unnoticed.In our first episode, we’re talking to a prolific developer and local West Virginia crusher—Andrew Leich—who's based out of an area of West Virginia that’s ALSO undercover…the bouldering and

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75 results

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