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PODCAST

Written in Stone: Climbing History

Plug Tone Audio

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one climb at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then.Season One: The 1990s and the explosion of sport climbing. Season Two: The 1980’s and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Season Three: The

sports wilderness

All Episodes

01:16:44

Lynn Hill on the Women of the 80s, Who Inspired Her...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/05/05

Lynn Hill is THE legend, and quite possibly the most impactful climber of all time. I could make a case that Lynn's free ascent in a day of The Nose is the greatest climbing achievement of all time. But Lynn and I aren't talking about Lynn. We're talking about the other women of the 80s: the women she climbed with, competed against and was inspired by. We also get into who is inspiring her now. More from Lynn at her website. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the

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01:33:54

Amy Skinner on Las Vegas Climbing in the 80s and the...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/04/28

Today I sit down with my good friend Amy Skinner - who, in the early 80s in Las Vegas, sort of stumbled into the scene that would eventually be called sport climbing. We discuss that movement, where she first encountered other female climbers, who her favorite female climbing partners have been, and more. Like many of the women who have been mentioned in this series, Amy is still involved in the climbing community, but has also become a pillar in her greater community. A business owner, an

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36:56

Women Climbers of the 80s Part 3: Unique Strengths

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/04/21

In Part 3 of our series on female climbers of the 1980s, we wrap up the decade with difficulty reaching new heights. We see a smart pattern start to emerge at the top of the pack as women realize how to leverage their unique strengths, and in doing so, they prove themselves with resounding success at the most futuristic crag in the world - Buoux. In this episode we discuss Christine Gambert, Catherine Destivelle, Lynn Hill, Isabelle Pattisiere, as well as many women who were involved in the

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35:25

Women Climbers of the 80s Part 2: Power In Numbers

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/04/14

In Part 2 of our series on women climbers of the 1980s, we focus on the middle of the decade, when difficulty soared. We take a closer look at the 1984 International Ladies Meet hosted by The Pinnacle Club in North Wales, how it connects to the women who were at the forefront of sport climbing a year later, and how standards began to skyrocket. We wrap up in Australia where Nyrie Dodd is the first to finish an often tried project. In this episode we discuss Jill Lawrence, Gill Price, Catherine

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43:15

Women Climbers of the 80s Part 1: It Wasn't Because...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/04/07

The history of women in climbing, in it’s written form, is woefully incomplete. In this, the first of a multi-part series, we attempt to correct some of these oversights by taking a look at not only the early 80s, but the years and accomplishments that laid the foundation for the women of the 80s. In this episode, we discuss Bev Johnson, Sibylle Hechtel, Diana Hunter, Coral Bowman, Beth Bennett, Barbara Devine, Louise Shepherd, Catherine Destivelle, Jill Lawrence, Mari Gingery, Lynn Hill and

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02:57

We're Giving Away 3 Rab Hoodies!

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/03/31

Our main sponsor this season, Rab, is giving away three of their Ascendor Light Hoodies, mens or womens, any color in stock.To enter, go to https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub Learn more about Rab at https://rab.equipment/us/

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04:05

History Misses Things

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/03/17

We're taking a short break because we want to make sure that we don't miss the important contributions from the women climbers of the 80's who were pushing things forward. We'll be back soon!In the meantime, there are a bunch of free bonus episodes in our Patreon, The Secret Stoners Club!

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57:55

Jeff Smoot on John Bachar, Peter Croft and the Shift...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/03/12

Because this season is focused on the 1980’s, and we are talking about the two best free soloists of their generations, Peter Croft and John Bachar, there is a Venn Diagram that puts today’s guest squarely in the center: Jeff Smoot. In Jeff’s book Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change and the Race for 5.14, he tells the tale of the beginnings of sport climbing in the U.S. - of Alan Watts and Todd Skinner - tales that John Bachar often plays the antagonist for. His most recent book, All and Nothing:

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52:12

Alex Honnold on Peter Croft, John Bachar,...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/03/10

Does Alex Honnold need an introduction? No, of course he doesn’t. But he was particularly suited for this conversation about Bachar and Croft for several reasons: #1, Alex is a student of history. He cares about this stuff. If you haven’t listened to his Climbing Gold podcast, you should. I highly recommend the Dope Lake series - it’s a 5 part series about the 1976 plane crash in the Yosemite high country - a plane that was carrying 4 million dollars worth of marijuana. Go listen. #2, he’s the

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47:34

John Bachar Chooses Peter Croft For a New Game

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/03/03

It was 1986, over halfway through a decade that had brought turbulent change to climbing, and it was clear to John Bachar that even in Yosemite - hallowed ground as far as he was concerned - ethics were shifting. Sure, people still traveled here to do the big walls and to climb some of the classics, but the world knew that Yosemite and the once mighty best climbers in the world who called Camp 4 home, were now WAY behind.But John Bachar had an idea of how he could get this train back on track. It

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44:15

Andrea Hah on Punks in the Gym, Arapiles, and Confidence

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/02/26

Shortly after my own trip to the Grampians and Araps, where I played briefly on Punks in the Gym, just to give it, as Ben Cossey would say, a tummy rub, I went back to the Blue Mountains where I met a bunch of Australian mega-crushers. One of those crushers was Andrea Hah. And because she was the first Australian woman to climb Punks in the Gym, and Arapiles had a big impact on her life, I really wanted to have her on the show. Andrea is not only a mega-crusher and one of the most accomplished

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01:01:58

Jesse Guthrie on Wolfgang Gullich, Kurt Albert and...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/02/24

As I was researching Wolfgang, I would regularly come across candid photos taken inside the house he shared with Kurt Albert, and of course I read every story about Wolfgang I could find. In those photos and those stories, I often came across an American name - Jesse Guthrie. I had to try to find him and get him on the show. He was one of the people on the leading edge of sport climbing when it was first coming into existence, and established the first 5.13s in Alabama and one of the first 5.14’s

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01:03:18

Hannes Huch on Community in the Frankenjura, Wolfgang...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/02/19

Because the history of the Frankenjura can’t be told without Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Gullich, both of whom we lost too soon, I wanted to talk to someone rooted in that community to try and get an understanding of how their legacy looks. For me, the obvious choice was Hannes Huch. He’s a photographer and artist who balances a modern aesthetic with a love for history, and that’s evident in his work with Cafe Kraft and the Gimme Kraft books as well as Jerry Moffat’s Mastermind book, and many other

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01:08:23

Ben Cossey on Wolfgang Gullich, Punks in the Gym and...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/02/17

There’s really no debate. In the pantheon of Wolfgang Gullich frothers, there is no person who is as much a frother as Australian superstar Ben Cossey. In May of 2024, Ben made the first ascent of a long-standing project at Mt. Arapiles in Australia, Lightweight Baby, finally finishing what became the hardest pitch in the area - and within sight of Wolfgang’s route, Punks in the Gym. In this episode we get into what makes Arapiles special, the history of Punks and the Birdbath, a wiggle sneak to

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46:43

Wolfgang Gullich is a Punk in the Gym

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/02/10

From the early to mid 1980's, Wolfgang Gullich was steadily discovering his own power. Spurred on by American and British climbers coming to the Frankenjura and establishing the hardest routes, he tapped into a part of himself that he rarely showed. With that competetive side on display, he went to America to do the hardest routes there, returned home to establish himself the best, and to Australia to establish the world's first 8b+, or 14a, Punks in the Gym. Save Arapiles Climbing Petition:

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04:20

History Takes Time

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/02/03

While we're working hard on the next episode, an update on some changes to the remainder of the season. Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab. This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

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01:30:43

Andy Salo and Whitney Boland on Lynn Hill and a Love...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/01/29

Andy Salo and Whitney Boland are modern day Gunks legends. Andy has FA’d some of the hardest routes in the area and co-written the brilliant guidebooks to the area. Whitney moved to the area and gained near instant local status, eventually writing the Flashback series about Gunks legends, which you can find both in Andy’s guidebooks and on the Rock and Snow website. In this episode, we discuss the scene and history at The Gunks, what factors contributed to the Gunks being such a powerhouse in the

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43:55

Russ Clune on Lynn Hill, Gunks Climbing and Vandals

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/01/27

Russ Clune is a Legend. I once introduced him as climbing's Forrest Gump, because since the 1980's he's been there for many of climbing's most impactful moments. A Gunks local who has traveled widely to climb on every type of rock, in every style imaginable, he's a living thread from before sport climbing to now, and if you're ever lucky enough to meet him, will eagerly regale you with those stories. In this episode, we discuss: Lynn Hill’s arrival on the Gunks climbing scene. Working on Vandals

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43:54

Lynn Hill Vandalizes Perception

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/01/20

In 1983, after years of climbing on Yosemite's granite cracks with John Long and the Stonemasters, Lynn Hill went on a roadtrip. First to Arizona, then to Colorado and finally Red Rock, outside of Las Vegas. While on the road, she and Long established some of the most classic routes in the country. After a brief foray into Hollywood stunts, Lynn traveled to the Gunks to climb for a magazine article and photoshoot.What happened next is history. Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus

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01:20:16

Niall Grimes on Moffatt, Revelations and What Jerry...

Written in Stone: Climbing History ·

2025/01/13

Many climbers put Jerry Moffatt’s book, Revelations, on the top of their list. This is in no small part due to the work of Niall Grimes, who co-wrote the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize Winner. Niall is an Irish climbing legend who lives in Sheffield, and the host of the hilarious, story filled Jam Crack Climbing Podcast. In this episode we discuss what Jerry Moffatt’s name meant in the early days, why Niall’s first meeting with Jerry resulted in Jerry naked and tied to a pipe, and the

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