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PODCAST

American Alpine Club Podcast

American Alpine Club Podcast

The American Alpine Club Podcast is your guide to the climbing community. We"re not your typical training podcast. Instead, we"re covering the advocacy issues facing climbers, diving into forgotten and niche stories from climbing history, discovering undercover crushers, analyzing trends in climbing accidents, hearing from SAR professionals, and exploring the biggest cultural ideas in climbing with some of climbing"s top athletes.

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All Episodes

01:02:31

CONNECT: Climbing Partnerships that Shape Us, with...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/08/28

In this episode, we sit down with climbing partners Erik Weihenmayer and Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht to talk about their recent expedition to Patagonia. Erik and Felipe are each incredible athletes in their own right, but the real heart of this conversation is about partnership, and the unique ways we learn from and rely on our climbing partners. We dive into Erik’s incredible career as the first blind person to climb Everest, and Felipe’s roots in Chile that inspired this expedition and continue to

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00:57:49

CLIMB: The Training Episode, with Tom Randall

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/08/11

On this episode of the podcast, we sat down with the infamous Tom Randall of Wide Boyz fame. Tom reflected on some of the most transformative moments in his climbing career, debunked some of the myths of climbing training, and got us hyped on the AAC’s new partnership and discount with Lattice Training. Whether it's how to train as a trad climber, or the difference that trainers see between UK athletes and US athletes, we covered a broad range of topics. If you’re curious whether you should start

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01:08:56

Inside Search & Rescue: Fall Into an Active Volcanic...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/07/26

A skier on Mt. Hood had slid out and fallen into an open volcanic pit—the Devil’s Kitchen Fumerole. With a broken femur and the toxic gasses of the volcano swirling in the air—the situation was dire. Many of the folks on Portland Mountain Rescue and the Hood River Crag Rats weren’t sure that the patient would survive when they first got the call. But with their unique fumerole self-lowering rope system, PMR and the Crag Rats were able get the patient out of that alien world of ice and snow and toxic

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00:52:38

Inside Search & Rescue: Stranded on a Cliff with a...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/07/26

When rockfall takes its toll, things get serious. Late in the day on an alpine climb in the Sierra, a microwave sized block fell and broke the leg of a climber as she stood at a belay 1,500 ft up Mt Emerson. As Inyo County Search and Rescue launched into the mission, they quickly realized that helicopter evacuation would not be possible given the weather. With freezing temperatures setting in and darkness falling, the ground team sprung into action—ultimately climbing hundreds of feet to the

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00:59:37

Inside Search & Rescue: Trapped Under a Boulder in...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/07/26

When the Chelan County Mountain Rescue team first heard that there was a boulder pinning a hiker in the Enchantments, they just assumed the hiker was trailside and easily accessible. But as the helicopter dropped them off at the scene of the accident, they quickly realized that the fridge sized boulder was pinning the hiker between a tree and another rock—right above a perilous cliff edge. The patient had both of his legs pinned and one arm–and his stats were falling fast. The team had to work

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00:47:50

CLIMB: Behind the Scenes of the USA Climbing Training...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/07/13

Is comp climbing the new cutting edge of our sport? We’re featuring a conversation between guest host and AAC board member Cody Kaemmerlen, and USA Climbing’s Head Coach, Josh Larson. Cody and Josh hang out at the USA Training Center to record this conversation, and talk team culture, behind the scenes of comp training, and even a bit about how the Olympics is shaping competitive climbing. This isn’t your typical training podcast. We’re taking a deep dive into the inner workings of an ever evolving

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01:15:14

EDUCATE: New Trends in Climbing Accidents—Summer 2023...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/06/28

Pete Takeda is back on the podcast! As the editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, he's ready to talk about new trends in climbing accidents that he's seen over the course of editing the 2023 edition of the book. With the most recent edition of ANAC freshly sent off to the printer, Pete has some insightful takeaways on the kinds of accidents we should all be paying attention to in our current climbing landscape. Things get a little emotional, existential, and even a little dark, but

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01:17:54

CONNECT: An Ode to Speed, with Alex Honnold and Buzz...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/06/01

Have you ever wondered: what’s at the root of Alex Honnold’s need for speed? In this episode of the podcast, we sat down with the ever-fascinating Alex Honnold, and put him in conversation with one of ulta running’s forefathers and one of the inventors of the FKT concept, or “fastest known time,” the one and only Buzz Burrell. In this episode, we took inspiration from Alex, who blends sports like running and rock climbing to create massive link-ups like the HURT and the CUDL, to investigate the

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00:53:25

PROTECT: The New Bolt Wars? Protecting America's Rock...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/05/05

Climbing in America’s Wilderness areas—places like Joshua Tree, Yosemite, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and so many other iconic climbing areas—is under threat. The bolting wars of old have been revived, but with a new inflection. It’s no longer sport climbers and trad climbers duking it out. Federal land managers feel cornered by increased usage on our public lands...and are arguing its necessary to ban the use of fixed anchors. But this is in conflict with climbers, who know that fixed anchors

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01:13:07

CONNECT: United in Yosemite, with Genevive Walker and...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/04/20

The AAC is super excited to be co-hosting a brand new climbing festival this summer that centers BIPOC, LGBTQ+ and adaptive climbers in Yosemite Valley, called United in Yosemite. In this episode, we sat down with Genevive Walker and Thomas Bukowski, who are each deeply embedded in the climbing world, helping create more inclusive climbing experiences, and are guides who will be running clinics at United in Yosemite. Our conversation covers what climbing means to them, the obstacles they face as

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01:02:52

CONNECT: After the Slide, Navigating Grief and Loss...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/04/04

In April of 2020, Anna lost her friend in an avalanche while the two were splitboarding Mt. Taylor. In the wake of the accident, Anna utilized the AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund to find accessible mental health care and connect with others who were grappling with similar trauma from accidents in the mountains. In this episode, we sat down with Anna to have a profoundly raw and elegant conversation about her experience of the accident, how the trauma of the avalanche changed her relationship to

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00:25:57

Legacy Series: Reflections from a Life in the...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/03/13

In 1963, Jim Whittaker stood on top of the highest mountain in the world, becoming the first American to summit Everest. Since then, he has brought the company REI to international prominence, and seen climbing change dramatically—including having his son Leif Whittaker call him from the top of Everest, a possibility Whittaker had never dreamed of. In this episode, Whittaker reminisces about wearing wet leather boots for 3 weeks on his expedition to Everest (and still keeping his toes), reflects on

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00:50:18

CONNECT: Life on the Edge of Climbing and Motherhood,...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/03/03

Majka Burhardt is a pro climber, a certified climbing guide, a conservation entrepreneur running an international organization, and a writer. She is also a mother to twins, and she’s still figuring it all out. She’s leaning into messy coherence, and learning how to be the best mom, climber, spouse, professional, and guide along the way. Her new book, "MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood" is a compilation of in-the-moment journals and voice memos Majka recorded while she was pregnant

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00:39:56

CLIMB: Connor Herson Talks "Empath"—One of the...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/02/23

Connor Herson is a young crusher, having freed the Nose at the age of 15, climbed 50 5.14s by his 18th birthday, and recently sending one of the hardest gear routes in the world, "Empath", 5.14d in Tahoe CA. The AAC is recognizing his overwhelming success so early in his climbing career with the Robert Hicks Bates Award, our annual award for up-and-coming you crushers who show exceptional promise for their future climbing endeavors. He's joining the likes of Kai Lightner, Margo Hayes, Sasha

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00:56:57

CLIMB: Madaleine Sorkin on Climbing the Dunn-Westbay...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/02/09

In the summer of 2022, Madaleine Sorkin freed the Dunn-Westbay Direct, the hardest route on the Diamond at 5.14-. She is the fifth person to send the route, and it is also the first female ascent of the climb. Because of how quickly she put down this proud alpine route, Madaleine has been nominated for the 2023 Climb of Year Award, the winner of which will be announced, alongside many other awards, at the AAC’s Annual Benefit Gala, which will be held in NY this year, from March 10th-11th. You can

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00:56:56

CLIMB: Your Craziest Climbing Stories, Reviewed

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2023/01/23

(Rated R for cussing ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) We’re trying something different this episode. We’re getting chatty about your craziest climbing stories—submissions from listeners and online forums about the craziest days we’ve had in the mountains and at the crag. From yacking yaks to eerie alpine ghosts, falling over 100 ft and walking with only a few bruises, and dreams about mimosas with Alex Honnold, AAC staff members explore the absurd and ridiculous climbing shenanigans that you submitted to the podcast,

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00:55:41

EDUCATE: The Art of Shralpinism, with Jeremy Jones

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2022/12/20

Legendary backcountry snowboarder Jeremy Jones describes being in the mountains as “The idiot’s guide to the present moment.” This wisdom and so much more shines through in this interview with Jeremy about his new book, “The Art of Shralpinism: Lessons from the Mountains.” Shralpinism, or the art of shredding and alpinism combined, is, according to Jeremy, a mix of the wisdom of reading avalanche danger, the science of changing conditions due to climate change, the art of evaluating risk and pushing

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01:10:40

CLIMB: Confessions of an Ice Climber

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2022/12/13

According to Tyler Kempney, a competitor for the USA Ice Climbing team, ice climbing is the most human form of climbing. In this episode, we discuss this philosophy of ice climbing, training for competing, risk and decision-making in the mountains in winter, and lessons learned from close calls and technical ascents, like Tyler’s FA of "Conditional Love" on Long’s Peak. We dig into the ice climbing competitions coming up this winter, and why everyone should try ice climbing. And of course, we talk

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01:06:21

CONNECT: Climbing 10,000 pitches in Eldo

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2022/11/25

Aubrey Runyon just climbed her 10,000th pitch in Eldorado Canyon—an area known for being sandbagged with sketchy gear—the bulk of which she did in the last 6 years. She’s had over 70 unique partners on the climb “Rewritten” alone, she knows ALL the gear beta to every climb…it’s honestly no wonder she’s frequently referred to as “The Mayor of Eldo.” In this episode, we sat down with Aubrey (who besides being a badass is also a volunteer for the AAC) to discuss completing her unusual goal, recovering

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01:03:20

CLIMB: The 10th Mountain Division and the Evolution...

American Alpine Club Podcast ·

2022/11/10

You’ve probably heard of the 10th Mountain Division, but did you know that climbing is just as or MORE important than skiing in shaping this division of expert mountaineering troops? In this episode, we sat down with Christian Beckwith, the creator of the 90 Pound Rucksack Podcast, and writer of a book by the same name, to talk about how climbers influenced the creation of the 10th Mountain Division, how climbing itself was critical to a battle in Italy that helped facilitate the end of the WWII,

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75 results

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