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PODCAST

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

Alan Arnette is a renowned mountaineer and Alzheimer"s advocate. He is well-known in the mountaineering community for his extensive climbing experience and his blog at alanarnette.com, which chronicles his expeditions and provides insights into mountaineering. He summited Mount Everest in 2011, Mount Manaslu in 2013, and K2 in 2014 at 58, making him the 18th and oldest American to summit the second-highest peak in the world. https://www.alanarnette.com

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All Episodes

00:16:23

Everest 2023 Weekend Update May 12

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/05/11

As forecasted, the winds have let up, allowing the rope team to continue fixing it to the summit. This will open the mountain for scores for clients with one or more Sherpas in support. Look for a busy first wave of summits over the next few days. The question is, how many people will be on their summit push this weekend? Almost every team has completed their acclimatization programs and is ready. The lack of fixed rope to the summit and high winds above Camp 3 has stalled everyone, frustrating some

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00:14:10

Everest 2023: Interview with Garrett Madison from...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/05/02

The #Everest2023 season is taking shape as teams continue to acclimatize with rotations to Camps 1 and 2, with some tagging Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp, we discuss the record permits, his acclimatization strategy, addressing the human waste problem, the long route through the Icefall and their attempt to summit the difficult and highly technical Nuptse. Climb On!AlanMemories are

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00:27:02

Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 30

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/04/30

Everest teams are doing the usual acclimatization rotations but are seeing heavy attrition that will ease crowding concerns. There's a new level of base camp luxuries that might be beyond the pale for some purists. Heavy snow is forecasted on Dhaulagiri, stalling movement there. Overall, it's been a low-drama year, thankfully. In this episode, I explore controversy on Shishapangma, exploding luxuries at Everest base Camp, and a narrative about the Western Cwm between Camps 1 and 2 on

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00:23:40

Everest 2023: Weekend Update April 23

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/04/23

Weekend Update While teams are as high as Camp 2 on Everest, most of the attention was on Annapurna, where one climber died, and two other climbers were miraculously rescued. Heavy snow hit Everest, but climbing continued. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits topped 400, a record for the Nepal side. The fixed rope was set to the South Col. I expect it reach the summit late next week. I cover a few topics in this update: - Noel Hanna death on Annapurna - Annapurna Anurag Maloo miracle

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00:21:19

Everest 2023 Weekend Update April 16

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/04/16

This was a week of highs and lows across the Himalayas. On Everest, three Sherpas lost their lives in the Icefall. The season's first 8000 meters summits occurred on Saturday, April 16, on Annapurna. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits top 300. And a description of the first days at base camp and the puja. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

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00:58:40

Everest 2023: Interview with Lukas Furtenbach: The...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/03/28

Lukas Furtenbach, a major mountaineering expedition guide company and is now a top supplier of supplemental oxygen systems to all teams climbing Everest. He partnered with Neil Greenwood of Summit Oxygen to create Everest Oxygen focusing on supplying supplemental oxygen to the mountaineering industry. His Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures offer global climbs, including most of the 8000-meter mountains, the Seven Summits, the Volcanic Seven Summits, and Ski Mountaineering. However, they have made

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00:31:28

Everest 2023: Interview with Scott Lehmann and Shayna...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/03/21

Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger, are aiming to be the first American deaf couple and, to their knowledge, the second and third deaf climbers to summit Mount Everest. Also, they are trying to become the first deaf couple to compete the Seven Summits. Both were born, as they say, profoundly deaf, meaning they had no hearing at all. They live in the Washington, D.C., area and are educators and mountaineers. They summited Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Ecuador’s Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, and Mont Blanc,

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00:49:38

Video Interview with Jost Kobusch’s Solo, Winter 2023...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/03/16

German Alpinist Jost Kobusch became only the third person to complete a solo winter Denali Summit successfully. He summited on Sunday, February 19, 2023, around 3:00 am. I caught up with him at his home in Chamonix, France, only a few weeks after his summit.Jost style is to climb alone during a season that few other people would choose. He climbs completely unsupported and often on the most difficult routes. On Denali, he summited via the Messner Couloir. We cover route, gear, weather, what he

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00:30:52

Podcast with Rebecca 'Becks' Ferry: Running from Makalu

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/02/28

Becks Ferry is back in the Nepal Himalaya mountains 2023 for Makalu, but with a twist - she will climb the fifth highest peak at 27,825 feet/8481 meters without supplemental oxygen and then run the 225 miles back to Kathmandu! In 2021, along with British Professional Mountain Guide Jon Gupta, they climbed on six peaks reaching the main summits of three. Everest (Summit) Makalu (reached 7500m) Lhotse (Summit) K2 (Summit) Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160m) Dhaulagiri (reached 7817m) We cover a

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00:15:33

Everest2023: Welcome to the Season

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2023/02/25

Welcome to the first Podcast for the Everest 2023 season. In this podcast, I talk about what we can expdct this year, now with the Tibet side closed again. I expect 2023 to be a big year for Everest-Nepal. With the COVID-19 pandemic letting up, Nepal is open. It expects many foreigners attracted by Nepali operators marketing low prices and requiring minimal climbing experience but providing tons of Sherpa support. I expect almost 1,000 total summits broken out by 400-450 foreigners from the Nepal

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00:24:59

Manaslu 2022 and Taking Care of Our Mountains

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/09/22

The Manaslu 2022 season is moving nicely, with the first client summits for the season on Thursday, September 22, 2022. There are a record number of people there, with 400 foreigners with permits and an equal or greater r number of support climbers, so it's crowded. This means there is an opportunity for more trash, crowds, and poor practices. In this podcast, I talk about my 2013 experience on Manaslu plus how we can take better care of our mountains. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything ---

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00:56:06

Going for 8000er Record: Kristin Harila all 14 in Six...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/08/23

A new trend in 8000-meter climbing is how many you can get in one trip and how fast. Norweigan Kristin Harila is on track to smash long-time records this year. Thus far, she has eleven of the fourteen, all with climbing Sherpas, Pasdawa Sherpa, and Dawa Ongju Sherpa, of 8K Expeditions. I had the opportunity to record this interview with her during a short respite back home in Norway. The current record is 189days between April 23 and October 29, 2019, by Nirmal Purja Pun Magar and is recognized by

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01:12:40

K2 2022: No O's, Unsupported Summits on Broad Peak...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/08/12

K2 had a record year this 2022 summer. Most of the summits were by Sherpas or Pakistani climbers helping their paying clients, but a handful were the rare type: no supplemental oxygen, no Sherpa support, and no commercial team. Danish climber Andreas Ritzau Frydensberg with American Eric Gilbertson summited Broad Peak on July 18th and K2 on July 28th.On his website, Country Highpoints, Eric describes their Broad Peak, and K2 climbs in detail. They climbed unsupported, using Pakastani Alpine

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00:17:51

K2 2022 Weekend Update July 30, 2022 A Summer of Summits

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/07/30

And the summits keep going with many firsts, records, and races to the top thanks to this summer’s, and for that fact, this spring’s, unusually stable weather across the Himalayas. It’s not uncommon for climbers to have three, four, or even five, or more 8000er summits this year. Let’s run a few down with more to come before it’s all over. Big Picture The season is winding down. I think the action is over on Nanga Parbat. The snow conditions were getting too dangerous a couple of weeks ago, and

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00:19:17

K2 2022: Weekend Update July 24, 2022 - Summits,...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/07/25

Well, the K2 climbers pulled it off. Congratulations to the 150++ who summited and especially to the Sherpas who fixed the lines to the summit. The weather cooperated, and there were limited problems, albeit with one death and one K2 climber is currently missing. We are approaching 200 K2 summits. Big Picture Summits Continue, Missing K2 Climber Several media outlets report that Canadian Richard Cartier, 61, is missing while descending from a rotation to lower Camp 4. He was last seen between C2

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00:34:22

Adventure Consultants Guy Cotter - A New Beginning

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/07/22

If you follow mountaineering, Adventure Consultants is one of the names that evoke almost three decades of memories. Guy Cotter, who began running the company in the mid-1990s, has deftly led his team through years of climbs worldwide. But in 2020, COVID was too much, and Guy made the difficult decision to put AC into 'hibernation.' Now, in 2022, he is ready to resume operations, smaller, leaner, and with an increased focus on running high-quality expeditions with discerning clients. In this

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00:14:03

K2 2022: Weekend Update July 16, 2022 - Summit Push...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/07/16

This has been a ‘lay-low’ week with storms hitting the higher elevations of Pakistan’s 8000ers. Yet, there were thwarted attempts. Many teams are finalizing preparations for their summit pushes beginning soon in what could be very short weather windows, but the predicted conflict with so many people has begun. Big Picture – The Summit Rush With this odd statement, “We are not ready for summit push but we will give our best as always.” teams are leaving base camp for their summit pushes at least a

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00:17:07

K2 Summer 2022: Weekend Update July 10: Deaths,...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/07/10

It's been a dramatic week in the Pakistani mountains. We saw summits on a couple of 8000ers, climbers in trouble, and tragically two deaths. The weather is currently keeping the K2 teams at base camp but look for a rush starting later this next week—all in all, a normal season thus far, despite the record number of climbers. Big Picture - Will 2022 K2 be like Everest 2019? As I've mentioned multiple times, Pakistan has taken a page out of Nepal's tourism book and issued permits to anyone and

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00:20:03

K2 2022 Weekend Update July 2, 2022 Karakorum Summits

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/07/03

Several strong Sherpas from various Nepali operators fixed the ropes on Nanga Parbat over the past few days thus facilitating a handful of clients to reach the summit. In total, there were 18 summits consisting of six members supported by 12 Sherpas, a 1:2 ratio of support. Pakistan issued 100 (member with support) permits this season; thus, look for more activity on Nanga. Big Picture The 2022 summer season is moving along with few, if any, issues reported by the teams. Most are talking about

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00:58:50

Video Interview Wilco Van Rooijen: No O's...

The Podcast on alanarnette.com ·

2022/05/31

We sometimes hear about a climber who has to make a tough decision as we follow mountaineering each season. Usually, it involves weather moving in that might jeopardize the team's safety or rescuing a teammate. Well, this spring, my long-time friend, Wilco van Rooijen, 55, faced a difficult decision, but it involved staying true to his style. The Dutch mountaineer cheated death in 2008 on K2, but we both lost a dear friend, Ger McDonnell, that year. Wilco, who always climbs without supplemental

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179 results

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