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PODCAST

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

Collective Horology

Openwork is a look inside the watch industry. A podcast from Collective Horology. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube and wherever you get your podcasts.

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All Episodes

41:30

Inside the GPHG – How the "Oscars of Watchmaking"...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/11/11

For years, we’ve followed the GPHG – the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève – with great excitement and interest as it’s essentially the Oscars of Watches. And with this year's award ceremony taking place November 13, we figured it would be helpful to lift the veil on what goes on behind the scenes. Who are the people who nominate these watches, and what does voting look like? Does the GPHG meaningfully drive sales for brands, and what’s involved in participating? We get into all of that and more, as

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01:01:15

New York Watch Week? – Plus Building URWERK and Brew...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/10/28

On this episode, we share an industry perspective on what’s quickly becoming something of a New York Watch Week – comprising the Windup Watch Fair, WatchTime and more. Additionally, we’re going to share a special live podcast recording from the Windup Watch Fair – a joint episode between us and the Worn & Wound Podcast. It’s a conversation with Martin Frei of URWERK and Jonathan Ferrer of Brew about how they built their brands.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective

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50:10

Watch Production in China – Wesley Kwok (Nodus)

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/10/14

On this episode, we take a look at a topic that we’ve been curious about for a long time. We have discussed, both with members of the industry and amongst ourselves, the realities of production here in the United States, Japan, Switzerland and to a lesser degree Germany. But to date, we haven’t discussed one of the largest centers of watch manufacturing in the world: China. From full watches to components of every imaginable variety, China is a formidable force in the world of watchmaking and watch

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42:42

Watches of Switzerland Acquires Hodinkee (Special...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/10/04

Today (October 4, 2024) marks a major shift in the watch industry. Hodinkee, the leading voice in modern watch media, has been fully acquired by Watches of Switzerland, a massive UK based retailer with operations around the world including in the US. Only a few months ago, Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee – and as of today, a President at Watches of Switzerland – announced that the publication was shuttering their retail business and going to back to focus on “the basics” (i.e., their editorial

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53:46

How to Value Watch Movements – Inside the Movement...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/09/23

We discuss the current landscape of movement suppliers and how it came to be. We cover how movements are selected by watchmakers, along with the drama that often surrounds the ever-popular “in house” vs “mass produced” discussion. We offer some thoughts on how, why or if movement design, finishing and construction should figure into a purchasing decision. Correction: On this podcast, we claimed that Czapek's SXH5 movement is designed by Czapek and produced by Chronode. That is incorrect. The

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59:59

Listener Survey Results – What You Told Us about the...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/09/09

Earlier this summer, we asked you – our listeners – to participate in a short survey in order to hear your perspective on the current state and future of the watch industry. The responses poured in, and on today's episode, we delve into what you shared. A massive thanks to those who responded. Your responses were incredibly thoughtful, helpful, and surprising. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online

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50:59

Geneva Watch Days: Stakes Are High – How the Event...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/08/30

Live from Geneva Watch Days, we discuss how the show has evolved from a collector focus to a major industry event, along with the consequences of those changes. And we cover some of the week's high drama, including how and why we were kicked out of the Beau Rivage hotel. Things are getting real here in Geneva – stakes are high.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get

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01:01:04

No Bottom in Sight: State of the Pre-owned Watch...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/08/19

We take a deep dive into the current state of the secondary (pre-owned) watch market with our friend Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. It’s a service we at Collective subscribe to for its valuable insight not just into the pre-owned watch market but what that data can tell us about the watch industry at large. And that’s exactly what we discuss with Hamza – what exactly is going on in the pre-owned watch market and more

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51:28

Epic Battle: Mono vs. Multi-brand Retail – Current...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/08/05

We look at the shifting landscape of watch retail – specifically the rise of single-brand boutiques, the trade-offs of those changes, and what the future looks like.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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55:05

Hodinkee Shutters Retail Business (Special Episode) –...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/07/25

On this special episode of Openwork, we discuss Hodinkee’s recent announcement that they’re shutting down their retail business – with the exception of limited editions – to refocus on editorial. This is big news that touched off an immediate and widespread response within the watch community. It also has significant implications for the watch industry at large, reshaping Hodinkee’s role within it and more broadly putting magnifying glass on the turbulent landscape of both watch media and

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01:01:58

Is the Watch Industry Dying? – Tony Traina (Hodinkee)

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/07/15

Our conversation with Tony Traina of Hodinkee takes a look at the current health of and sentiment toward the watch industry. We look at how brands, retailers and watch media contribute to the current state of the industry, and what they can do to improve things.Links: Rescapement Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry – monthly export data Watches of Switzerland – quarterly earnings and annual report (FY ending April 2024) Morgan Stanley 2023 Swiss Watch Industry Report – Revolution Magazine

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51:23

Navigating the Swiss Watch Industry as an Outsider –...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/07/01

This episode is a very frank and unfiltered conversation with Aren Bazerkanian, founder of Havid Nagan – the upstart independent brand that took the watch world by storm in 2022 with its debut watch the HN00.We recorded this conversation in January of this year at a time when Aren was navigating challenges with Swiss watch production. In particular, one of his key suppliers experienced a leadership change and increased costs, rendering the economics of his second project the HN01 Lucine

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51:14

How We Make Collaborative Watches – Behind the New...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/06/18

Probably the question we’re asked most is how we design and develop our collaborative watches – how we identify brands, how the creative process works, and how we make decisions along the way on everything from design to finishing. So on this episode, we’re going behind the scenes on the making of our latest collaboration: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can

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52:49

From Enthusiasts to Insiders – Lessons from Going...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/06/03

We share our biggest lessons from going inside the watch industry. We both made the transition from watch enthusiasts to industry insiders. We’ve had the opportunity to retail watches, design them, meet many industry luminaries, and even serve as GPHG academy members – and we’ve learned a ton along the way. We often get asked what that journey has been like, and what advice we’d give others who are looking to do the same or are just curious.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of

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53:15

When Founders Leave their Brands – Roman (Host of...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/05/20

We discuss what happens when a founder leaves their brand. From Daniel Roth to Speake-Marin, there are examples of this all over the industry, with some interesting – if varied – results.We're joined by one of our oldest friends and an authority on independent watchmaking Roman (@timesromanau), host of the Independent Thinking podcast on Fifth Wrist Radio. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at

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54:52

Starting an Independent Watch Brand – Thomas Fleming...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/05/06

We're joined by Thomas Fleming (Fleming Watches) to talk about the realities of starting an independent watch brand. Everything from what it means to build the strategy, raise the funding and develop the branding for a company to how it feels to finally put something that you care about so much into the world. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with

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51:41

Selling & Trading Your Watches – Trade-offs, Tips &...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/04/22

We’re lifting the veil on selling and trading your watches. We cover the options available when you’re ready to move on from a watch, the trade-offs of those options, as well as why there are different cost structures depending on how you sell or trade your watch. In particular, we share how we as dealers look at buying and trading for watches, which will hopefully demystify things and more importantly help the next time you approach a dealer about selling or trading your watch.Hosted by Asher

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39:34

Watches & Wonders 2024: The Biggest Story No One is...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/04/10

We're live from the floor of Watches & Wonders 2024 to provide an insider take on this week’s goings on in Geneva – the mood of the fair, industry scuttlebutt, and how we see it all impacting the watch industry and collectors.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

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48:02

What Really Goes on at Watches & Wonders – Zach Kazan...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/03/25

On this episode, we pull back the curtain on one of the biggest weeks in the world of watches: Watches & Wonders. Together with Zach Kazan (Managing Editor of Worn & Wound), we talk about what it’s like to be retailers and journalists respectively at this industry event, what really goes on in all those meetings, and what we hope to see from the industry this year.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can

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01:05:41

Building and Growing Czapek –Xavier de Roquemaurel...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2024/03/11

We discuss the tradeoffs involved in managing a fast-growing watch brand – in particular, how independent watch brand Czapek is navigating a period of intense growth and demand. Together with Xavier de Roquemaurel (CEO of Czapek & Cie.), we look at what’s going on behind the scenes to expand their operations, manage customer relationships, and plan sustainably for the long term.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch

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65 results

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