x

75% of people globally want unbiased news (Pew Research) but are concerned they're not getting that.

Get balanced coverage with Symby. See how stories are covered across diverse outlets and spot when one side covers a story the other skips.

PODCAST

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

Collective Horology

Openwork is a look inside the watch industry. A podcast from Collective Horology. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly. Available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, YouTube and wherever you get your podcasts.

leisure hobbies

All Episodes

48:34

How Global Wealth Drives The Watch Industry –...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2026/01/19

On this episode, we dig into how global wealth trends—rather than hype cycles or short-term market noise—are reshaping the luxury watch industry. Drawing on reporting originally published by ScrewDownCrown (Substack), we use the UBS Global Wealth Report to examine the rapid rise of the “EMILLI” cohort: individuals with $1–5 million in net worth. This group has quadrupled since 2000 and now represents the core audience for sub-$10,000 to $50,000 watches, helping explain why mechanical timepieces

en

35:45

Yes, More Price Increases – Rolex, AP, Tudor, and Why...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2026/01/12

We kick off the first Openwork episode of 2026 by breaking down the latest watch price increases from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Tudor, with a sharp focus on why U.S. buyers are seeing significantly higher jumps than Europe and the UK. We unpack how tariffs, currency swings, commodity prices, and inflation are converging—and why, once prices move up, they almost never come back down. We also contrast how mega-brands and independents respond very differently to these pressures.From there, we dig

en

22:02

The Dive Watches of Ming – The Watches of Podcast

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2026/01/05

On this episode, we share something a little different by sharing an installment from The Watches of Podcast, a new series where we step away from industry-wide analysis and focus deeply on individual brands—their history, philosophy, people, and, importantly, their watches.Each episode is designed as a focused, evergreen exploration of a single brand, and here we use that format to zero in on Ming’s dive watches, a category that has quietly become one of the most revealing expressions of the

en

41:51

2026 Watch Industry Predictions – A Year of Recovery,...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/12/29

On this episode, we step back to assess where the watch industry actually landed in 2025, revisiting our prior predictions with a focus on the bigger forces at work rather than scorekeeping. We talk candidly about the pressure points that defined the year—pricing fatigue, currency and tariff shocks, and the uneven mood among collectors—while also acknowledging the resilience of independent watchmaking and the ways enthusiasm managed to persist despite real headwinds. From there, the conversation

en

39:05

The Watch Industry Ends the Year Down – As Pressures...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/12/22

On this episode of Openwork, we dig into the long-awaited reduction of U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches, which finally dropped from 39% to 15% after weeks of confusion and delay. We explain what actually changed, why the rollout took more than a month after the initial agreement, and how the U.S. customs system ultimately flipped the switch. While the lower rate is meaningful relief for the industry, we also talk through the real-world complications around retroactivity, post-summary corrections, and

en

47:36

Ditching the Luxury Script for Independent Watches –...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/12/15

In this episode of Openwork, we talk with our sales director, Geoff Souder, about what fundamentally changes when you move from selling traditional luxury watches to selling independent brands. Drawing on decades of experience with mainstream names like Rolex and Patek Philippe, Geoff explains how scale and standardization create a polished but often homogenous retail experience, then contrasts that with the realities of independence—where there is no built-in foot traffic and every relationship

en

49:30

Signs of Hope for an Industry Under Pressure –...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/12/08

Openwork is going weekly. In addition to our classic shows which focus on a specific topic or guest, we’re introducing a new format: a discussion of current events in the watch industry. So this week, we take a look at some tariff news (or lack thereof), supplier challenges, the significant growth of India, along with a few new releases.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at

en

59:11

Embracing Risk & Managing Hype – Sylvain Berneron...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/12/01

Today we’re talking about the rise of independent hype watches. Until very recently, as we’ve discussed on this podcast, independent watchmaking was something of a backwater of the watch industry or at best the realm of the cognoscenti. But in recent years, creations from the likes of MB&F, Simon Brette, Rexhep Rexhepi and today’s guest Sylvain Berneron have become objects of desire, cutthroat demand and even speculation. How did it get this way? What are the drivers? And what role do the brands

en

47:45

2025 GPHG Dispatch – We're in Geneva for this Year's...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/11/17

This week we’re coming to you from Geneva, where we’ve attended the GPHG award ceremony, celebrated Czapek’s 10th anniversary, and had some time to experience the city’s horological treasures. We share a recap of our time in Geneva, including what everyone who attended the GPHG is really talking about.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions,

en

51:31

Watchmaker, Writer, and Brand Executive – Rob Nudds...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/11/10

Today we’re talking to someone who has made the transition from watchmaker to journalist to watch brand executive. In fact, it’s not so much a transition but a career expansion as he still assembles watches while creating copious content and works in various business roles for a number of watch brands. Of course, we’re talking to none other than Rob Nudds, the watch industry’s renaissance man.Rob's latest collaboration with Straum: Straum × TRTS Jan Mayen Titanium Stormy Seas. Hosted by Asher

en

62:04

The Rise & Retreat of Omega – From Industry Leader to...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/11/03

It’s the Omega-sode. We’re taking a look at the business of Omega: How they went from the world’s number one watch brand – both in terms of sales and units shipped – to number three, what happened along the way, and where they may be headed next.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email

en

42:58

Inside New York Watch Week – Nicholas Bowman-Scargill...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/10/20

We're live at WatchTime New York 2025 with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, 4th Managing Director of Fears. We discuss the growth of WindUp, WatchTime and the many other watch happenings in New York this past week, including what the brands are talking about behind closed doors. Yes, a bit of tea.Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or

en

56:46

How the 'Big Four' Took Over – 2018-2024 Watch Market...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/10/06

We’re taking a look at how the watch market has shifted in the past half decade plus. In particular, we’re taking a look at what’s changed since Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult published their first annual watch industry report in 2018 – which brands and segments are up and down, how tastes are changing, and so much more.For full show notes, including links to coverage on the Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult reports, visit collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly,

en

65:09

What's Going on at Bremont? – Inside the British...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/09/22

On September 5, 2025 under British law and as originally reported in WatchPro, Bremont filed their 2024 financial year report, which saw the brand post a whopping £9 million (GBP) loss. In addition to the numbers, the report reveals a great deal about the state of Bremont’s business and their strategy going forward. Now although just filed this month, the reporting period ends June 2024, so a lot of course could have changed between then and now. Nonetheless, this is a clear, transparent and

en

44:52

Our Favorite Watches – Geneva Watch Days 2025

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/09/08

Before we leave Geneva, we’re back with a recap of our favorite watches – all of them unexpected and expressions of unique points of view.Full show notes below with photos, more information and links: collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podcast@collectivehorology.com.

en

28:40

Geneva Watch Days 2025 – Facing Global Challenges,...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/09/04

We're live from Switzerland with our take on Geneva Watch Days 2025. We discuss what we're hearing in the meeting rooms, our takeaways from this week's releases, as well as how the show and industry more broadly are adapting to a turbulent environment. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry. You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email

en

36:21

The Watch Industry’s Busiest Summer – Geneva Watch ...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/09/01

Summertime, usually a downtime in the watch industry, has been particularly busy this year. On this episode of Openwork, we're looking at three timely stories: A preview of Geneva Watch Days, the latest Swiss watch export data, and Richemont's most recent quarterly earnings. Taken all together, these current events demonstrate the watch industry isn't lacking for intrigue in the waning days of summer. Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside

en

01:00:29

The Industry's Most Important Watches – From the...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/08/18

On this episode of Openwork, we explore the watches that shaped both the watch industry and global culture. Our focus is on the modern era—from the Quartz Crisis to today.Each of us selects three watches that transformed the industry, influenced how we collect, and left their mark far beyond the world of horology. We also each choose the most important industry executive of the same period. For full show notes, including details on all watches, visit collectivehorology.com/blog. Hosted by Asher

en

55:18

39% Swiss Tariffs – Implications  for the Watch...

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/08/02

On July 31, the United States announced a new reciprocal tariff rate of 39% on imports from Switzerland, starting August 7, 2025. These tariffs have sweeping implications for the Swiss watch industry and the global watch industry more broadly.On this episode of Openwork we discuss those effects, along with what to look for next. How will negotiations play out? And how will the watch industry navigate future tariffs? Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology,

en

01:03:00

Cars vs. Watches – Wesley Smith (STANDARD H)

Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry ·

2025/07/28

Today, it’s cars vs. watches. In particular, we’re looking at the automotive world, which is often compared to the watch industry—including on this podcast—to see what it might teach us about watches. Our guest is Wesley Smith, the founder of STANDARD H, a California-based apparel and lifestyle brand inspired by his lifelong passions for cars, watches, travel, and design. With over 20 years of retail experience—from surf shops to luxury brands like Gucci and James Perse—Wesley launched STANDARD H in

en

65 results

Similar Podcasts

Expres Ráno

Expres FM

詭哭郎嚎

郎祖筠 & FMTaiwan製作團隊

Ron en Erik Podcast

Ron en Erik

Poor Man"s Pinball Podcast

Poor Men Ian and Drew

WeAreChange on Odysee

WeAreChange