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PODCAST

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

Join Dave, a surfer who"s spent years traveling the world, living the surf-optimized life. "A Surfer"s Notebook" is his collection of true stories and personal reflections from that journey. Beyond perfect waves, Dave shares insights on surf culture, analyzes interesting breaks, describes unforgettable characters, and explores the unexpected connections he"s found along the way – from the physics of a wave to the flexibility of a foot.

society & culture personal journals

All Episodes

00:17:23

28 - Tipping Point

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/11/05

Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the water, during the height of the typhoon swell. Both were tests I'd have to face on my own.

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00:54:16

27 - Miyazaki By Van

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/10/29

What's it like to live in the "Wave Hunter" and surf typhoon swells in Japan? Follow the ups and downs of this eventful week on the Miyazaki coast.

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00:22:51

26 - Planting The Seed

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/10/22

Today we are kicking of the Japan series... which includes multiple notes from my extended stay and extensive search for surf in Japan. This first note covers how I came to decide that spending several months in Japan to find my stoke would be a good idea...

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00:13:10

25 - The Arc of A Swell

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/10/15

Each swell follows a predictable arc that plays out in the surf community. Here's how it goes...Read this note and see pics and diagrams here: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-arc-of-a-swell/

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00:06:54

24 - Dreaming of Surf

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/10/08

Why can't I come to terms with "surf dreams"? Read it here: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/dreaming-of-surf/

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00:29:40

23 - Central American Summer Pt. 3 - Going Wild in...

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/10/01

What happens when a young group of 20 year-old men, heavily influenced by surf culture of the 2000's, rent an apartment in Costa Rica for a month? A lot can happen... including one short moment that would change the trajectory of my life. Drop out and tune in.To read and see pics, visit: https://surfersnotebook.com/central-america-summers-pt-3-going-wild-in-the-streets

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00:41:32

22 - Central American Summer Pt. 2 - Nicaragua: The...

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/09/24

What kind of trouble can a gringo get into when they get setup with a host family in rural Nicaragua? Listen in to find out. To read this note and see pictures, visit: https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/central-american-summer-pt-2-nicaragua-the-interior/

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00:25:51

21 - Central American Summer Pt. 1 - Venturing Beyond...

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/09/17

This week we're going waaayyyyy back! All the way to my first surf trip - a high school graduation venture to Panama which would kick off a 3-summer run of Central American adventures.Some things lined up nicely, some things went terribly wrong. Listen in to hear about the rollercoaster ride. To read this note, visit: https://surfersnotebook.com/central-american-summer-pt-1-venturing-beyond-the-bubble

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00:08:03

20 - Under The Influence

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/09/10

What dictates our surf style and motivation for better waves?

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00:18:01

19 - Who is God?

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/09/03

The lingering question of who God is plagued me for years... until I drew a line in the sand and decided enough is enough.

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00:08:49

18 - My Set Wave Mantra

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/08/27

Why do I always seem to blow the takeoff when everyone is watching? Find out why... and how I fixed it in this week's note.To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/my-set-wave-mantra/

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00:13:00

17 - Falling in Love Again (And Changing My Mind)

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/08/20

What happens when the surf bug bites twice? A few seconds in the green room and a chance conversation with a lifer flipped my view of surfing on its head. Tune in to see how the trajectory of a surfer's life can pivot on a dime.

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00:04:27

16 - Head vs Heart

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/08/13

Is this a battle all surfers fight? Here's my experience with the internal tug of war.

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00:18:52

15 - The Vibe

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/08/06

Since I started keeping a log of all my sessions, I've realized it's not just the wave quality or quantity that gets me stoked. How does vibe factor in? And what's the appeal in longboarding?

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00:31:30

14 - Beat it Predator!

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/07/30

A strange character has me questioning whether the rising popularity of surfing is driving surfers crazy. Tune in this week for an extension of last week's coverage of So Cal surf adventures... and realities...

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00:13:21

13 - Going Loko

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/07/23

How can a challenge involving an alcoholic energy drink and bad waves lead to getting stoked? Find out what happens when "the boyz" get together for a session, in this week's note.

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00:40:11

12 - The Nias Hustle

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/07/16

Having surfed at some of the best waves around the world I thought I had seen it all... but nothing has compared to the relentless hustle of this surf village in Indonesia. Tune in to this week's note to see how a micro-economy can form in even the most remote surf destinations.

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00:08:40

11 - My First Real Barrel

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/07/09

I had chased the unicorn for what felt like forever, until one day, it all lined up. This week's note was written in the magical land of unicorns and offshore winds - Nicaragua.

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00:07:44

10 - The Rollercoaster

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/07/02

I sat down immediately after a session in South Africa to write this letter home. With hair still wet and sand on my feet I felt compelled to get it out of my head and on to "paper" before I lost the feeling.

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00:02:22

9 - A Lower Dose of BS

A Surfer"s Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves ·

2025/06/25

This week's note: a quick life lesson I learned from traveling around the world with surfboards.

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26 results

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